Mister Jack Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 Yes. I suppose that would be a more accurate way to put it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eleven Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 (edited) This is what I used to move my steam games from the SSD to HDD (since I wanted to install steam on my SSD). http://www.traynier.com/software/steammover If I just wanted to make specific folders "appear" to be in the SSD but is actually on an HDD, I used junction, but only because that's what I used before. Win 7-10 should have the ability to make symbolic links by default. It's all manual work though through the command line. http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/16226/complete-guide-to-symbolic-links-symlinks-on-windows-or-linux/ steammover is just a program that automatically uses junctions or symbolic links for your steam games. If you're moving to an external HDD (since I assume you don't want to fill up your laptop's SSD), then I'd be careful of running steam while the external HDD is not plugged in. I'm guessing steam might think the game is missing files and update, and might redownload to your SSD. Edited February 27, 2016 by Eleven 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Jack Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 Thanks. I'll keep it in mind when I inevitably need to make room on the SSD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eleven Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 So just a follow-up on my USB concern. Seems like (on my laptop at least), it can power 2 USB 3.0 external drives, and even transfer files (full write speed even), plus a mouse, so 2 demanding and 1 low power device. Just to see what would happen, I added a 3rd USB 3.0 drive. And it popped up on explorer, and it seems I can browse them all. So I copied files from the 1st drive to the 2nd, did the same for the 2nd drive to the 3rd, and did the same for the 3rd drive to the first. I guess it lost power since it kind of fucked up the third drive. Luckily no permanent damage and it just needed to be checked for errors by windows. Still wondering how the single port can power 2 drives and a mouse. I guess the maximum power it can output is greater than what 1 drive usually requires. Pretty handy since my laptop only has 1 USB 3 port (seriously though it's been years every port should be USB 3). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMightyEthan Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 Are you talking about power or speed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eleven Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 Power. Some early 2.0 USB external drive enclosures required a cable with 2 USB connectors on the other end, since 1 port couldn't supply enough power for it. So I kinda assumed that a port could only really power a single 2.5" drive (with 3.5" drives always requiring external power). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMightyEthan Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 Does your hub not have an external power supply? If not then I too am surprised it's able to draw enough power from just one USB port to run all of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eleven Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 It does, but I tested it without plugging it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deanb Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 USB 3 has a higher power output than USB 2(and USB C even more so to be able to be an actual power & data cable), which theoretically scales up to 100watt if need be (and specification allows). Normally it's 4.5watts to USB 2.0's 2.5watts (and USB 2 charges up your phone, so nearly double that is more than enough to power a HDD) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madbassman39 Posted March 14, 2016 Report Share Posted March 14, 2016 If my motherboard supports SATA II and I buy a SATA III drive can I connect it and run it like a SATA II drive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMightyEthan Posted March 14, 2016 Report Share Posted March 14, 2016 Yes, SATA standards are inter-compatible, it will just run at whatever the crappiest component is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danielpholt Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Okay so I've had this issue on and off for the last 3-4 years. Basically, I'll be using a window in Windows 7 when suddenly and without warning i'll be unable to do anything in that window until I mouse click on it. It's like the window itself is being Alt+tabbed away, only without actually moving away. It's done it whilst I typed this up. The window is completely useless until I activate it by pressing on it with my mouse. Highly annoying is what it is. Doesn't happen all the time though, maybe 2 times in 20 times I start the machine up, but it's like that until I shut it down again. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eleven Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Some background program is stealing the focus I think. I know I've had a similar problem before. If it happens again, check the system tray and see if you're running something that might cause it. Or check the processes tab in Task Manager and see if you see something there that you don't recognize. I was gonna say check your startup programs too but then you should be seeing this behavior all the time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eleven Posted April 8, 2016 Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 I really, really miss my PC... How hard is it to install a CPU to a motherboard? It looks easy but also looks like something I could mess up and end up with an expensive paperweight... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMightyEthan Posted April 8, 2016 Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 Super easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deanb Posted April 8, 2016 Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 Just put the paste on the right part of the CPU. Otherwise, yeah it's quite nerve racking but pretty dang easy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMightyEthan Posted April 8, 2016 Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 When I've done it before the paste was already on there (in solid form that melts itself to form a good bond on first activation), I've only had to apply paste when switching out the heat sink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mal Posted April 8, 2016 Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 Easy and, yes, it does require that much pressure to close the clamps on the CPU with a click. As for the thermal paste, just get whatever known thermal paste and apply however you like. You can see how much is too much and how much is too little in that video as well. I personally used the card method to lay it all out to get an even spread and it gets around the issue of too much paste. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMightyEthan Posted April 8, 2016 Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 If you're scared messing with the thermal paste just get a CPU that comes with a heat sink, then it already has the paste applied and you don't need to worry about it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mal Posted April 8, 2016 Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 (edited) I recall that most (retail) CPU will come with a heat sink/cooler. It's only when it comes to the higher end CPUs (and OEM purchases) when they start to not come with it since the stock heat sink/cooler is not great when the CPU get pushed to the levels they were designed to do. Edit: And as the conclusion of the video I linked said... it really not a big deal. Place it in the right place (you computer won't do some cartoony Sponge Bob BS), place a pea sized amount, spread it or not and place the heat sink on. Edited April 8, 2016 by MaliciousH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. GOH! Posted April 9, 2016 Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 But you should scrape and replace thermal paste every year or thereabouts. Just monitor your CPU temp; when it starts being significantly hotter all the time, it's time to scrape and replace your thermal paste. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madbassman39 Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 I have an issue maybe some of you had run into. I upgraded my Windows 7 gaming rig to Windows 10. Can barely play through a single rocket league match without my computer freezing. Does anyone know why this is happening? Is there some configuration I need to change? My PC is a core i7-3770k, 16 gb ram, Nvidia 970 with the 64 bit operating system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMightyEthan Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 My only thought would be to make sure you've updated your drivers. Even if you have you might try removing and reinstalling them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deanb Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Yeah, upgrading OS always do a reinstall of drivers cos what works on one OS will get you by on another but will be far from effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. GOH! Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 (edited) Yeah. Make sure you update all drivers, including CPU drivers. My 970 and old i5 CPU work fine on W10, so it's not a general problem with those components, unless the manufacturer of your 970 fucked something up. Edited April 11, 2016 by Mr. GOH! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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